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Made from Californian redwood by Les Hinds, a local builder from , they were 8 ft long, 20” wide, 11/2” thick and weighed 35 pounds.Riding the boards was limited to launching onto broken waves from a standing position and riding white water straight in, either prone or kneeling.the early Australian settlers – mainly of English origin – found no native surfing tradition to encourage or restrict either body or craft-based surfing, as was the case in and inspired others to dive in.His style was studied and copied by Manly swimmers like Eric Moore, Arthur Lowe and Freddie Williams.It has been reasonably estimated that the act involving wooden boards could date as far back as 2000 B. Key figures in this resurgent interest in surfing include: George Freeth, Alexander Hume Ford, Jack London, Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, A little surprisingly to those of us looking back at it now, surfing’s growth was not explosive following its resurgence, but rather a slow and gradual progression. “Wave sliding” using boards – along with canoe and body surfing – not only became important parts of the lifestyle of all Hawaiians prior to European contact in the later 1700s, but was also integrally connected with Hawaiian culture.Local government authorities and regulars at the beaches eventually figured out that the general public would need to be either regulated or monitored.

Photographs of Grace Wootton taken in 1916 show her surfing and her personally modified woolen swimsuit, purchased from Ball and Welch (Outfitters), Melbourne.’s top boardrider for the next 10 years.Surfing, like most other Australian recreational activities, was largely put on hold until after 1918.Other prominent boardriders in the Manly area, post-Duke, were Steve Dowling, “Busty” Walker, Geoff Wyld, Ossie Downing, Reg Vaughn (Manly), Tom Walker (Seagulls), Barton Ronald, Billy Hill and Lyal Pidcock.,” and after some basic instruction, Grace Wootton became a proficient and stoked surfer.“The total number of casualties, including killed, wounded, and missing, is figured at 37.5 million…An outbreak of influenza in the autumn of 1918 compounded the death toll as it swept through populations already weakened by the nutritional privations of total war.”“The catastrophic toll of the war also resulted in a new, looser code of morality, especially in a growing urban environment.

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